I couldn't sleep.  It's about 3:30 a.m. here.  There was light seeping though the blinds and it had an odd cast to it, so I went to see if the Northern Lights were visible.  They weren't.  The pinkish glow was moonlight reflecting off freshly fallen snow.  This truly is the first October snow I've ever seen. 

I went to my first loppemarket today with Sarah, who despite her affinity for the Volunteers, is an excellent person.  Flea market is not really an accurate analogy of what a loppemarket is - it's a combination garage sale, flea market, and contact sport.  We were there late in the afternoon, but nevertheless scored some EXCELLENT finds - including this LSU t-shirt..  That;s right - LSU is universal.  The Vikings love the Tigers, too.  (I didn't see any Tennessee stuff around - just sayin'.)  My other goodies are gifts, so you may or may not eventually know what I bought,

On the way to the bus stop, I passed a duo playing stand-up bass and saxophone.  I've played (at) both instruments in my past lives.  To play competently, which both these guys did, in 35 degrees deserves money.  Which I gave them.  (not a lot - like $3)  I stood at the stop for a while and listened as they shifted from big band to improv - definitely influenced by 50s and 60s jazz, these guys. 

I was waiting at the bus stop today and I SWEAR I saw little, itty, bitty teeny weenie snowflakes.  And apparently, northern Norway has a blanket of snow today.  Even when I was in Svalbard, it didn't snow, although there was snow on the ground that melted as soon as I arrived.  AND- the Northern Lights have been sighted outside Bodo.  I go back up to the Arctic Monday  and I hope I get to see the lights!

When I was in Bodo earlier this month, the lights weren't visible yet. I was a little disappointed.  What really surprised me about Bodo, though, was that it was not what I expected for "the Arctic."  I'm not really sure what I expected it to be, but it was just like any other small city, just slightly chillier.  It has a lovely harbor - and I watched a ferry dock.  When I think of a ferry, I picture a flat-bottomed keelboat like they used on the Mississippi long ago.  That is NOT what is a ferry here.  These look more like cruise ships!  The precision required to bring these ships in is stunning.   When we take one to Denmark, I'll make sure take pictures!

The teachers and students in Bodo were delightful.  We had some great conversations and perhaps the most beautiful matpakke in Norway (see above).  Really.  They were magazine ready.  And tasty.  I actually have had several really good visits in a row - two schools here in Oslo - Bjornholt and Nydalen, Sarpsborg, and most recently Trysil.  Six school sin two weeks.  Which is one reason it's been two weeks since I posted anything!  The students seem to be interested in the topics and the teachers have incredibly open and welcoming - giving me tours of the area, joining me for dinner.  I'm wondering when I'll get a "bad" visit.  (not that I WANT one - just that it has to happen, right?!) 

Between visiting schools I also participated in the ASANOR conference last weekend. (That's the American Studies Association of Norway)  There was a teacher's pre-conference which had some really interesting papers followed by sessions on Saturday and Sunday.  I presented "Founding Rivals: Jefferson and Hamilton in Modern American Politics" or something like that.  Lots of very positive feedback and compliments, which is always nice.  On Sunday, I was a member of a panel discussion on the Presidential election..... I know right?  What were they thinking?!  I could talk for HOURS about that!  and I did - and I even let other people say something sometimes.  :)  Buy really, generally positive responses and requests for cards so my brain can be picked later,  (alas - no business cards yet.)

Oh - before I forget - if you ever get to Trysil (which is famous for its ski resorts) see if you can eat lunch in the restaurant at the high school.  There is a culinary arts vocational program there and the "lunches" I had yesterday and Tuesday were worthy of a fine dining establishment.  Some of the best food I've had in Norway.  They even served us MOOSE!  (and some, umm, interesting local cheese that is very grainy like couscous and has a very strong blue cheese like flavor.  I wasn't the only one to leave it on the plate.)  Fantastic meals.

Tomorrow I head to Ski, which is just 10 minutes down the train line. Monday, I fly to Lofoten, which is north of Bodo, well, within the Arctic Circle.  Maybe I'll get  some pictures of SNOW!

In Svalbard, the wind would be icy blue.  Even though it was early October there was snow on the ground when I arrived.  Of course, Longyearbyen is the most northerly continuously inhabited settlement on Earth.  So, that makes sense.  My hostess/guide, Karianne, drove me around for a brief tour.  She and her family have been here for a few years and enjoy the winter sports/activities that are available for a much longer season than even on the mainland near Tromo, which isn't exactly a tropical paradise.  She was very gracious, stopping at key spots so I could take pictures.  She also insisted on taking pictures of me in front of landmarks, despite my protests that I hate having my picture taken.

We saw the huge telescope on top of a mountain which monitor the Northern Lights (which alas, were not yet visible) and solar activity; remnants of a hundred years of mining operations (Nothing which was on the island prior to 1946 can be removed under any circumstances, so scattered across the landscape are pullies, cranes, and other industrial flotsom and jetsom.); the Global Seed Vault (which most residents don't really "get," according to several people.); reindeer in the wild (but no polar bears); and the Advent Valley (pictured above).

The town itself is not large, with around 2000 permanent residents, but there is a significant amount of tourism and business - enough to fill a 747-sized aircraft on a Monday.  Karianne told me NASA regularly sends people there for testing in "lunar" conditions as well as for satellite maintenance, in addition to the international scientific contingent at the university.  There are regular docking of cruise ships as well, both in the summer and winter.  So it's a little odd to be in a such small town with four hundred-room hotels.

There are also four kindergartens (day-cares, really, in American terms).  Lots and lots of young kids. The elementary and lower-secondary schools are surprisingly sized, but the student population in the upper-secondary school drops dramatically.  Some  students that age do not attend but most actually go to the mainland for VGS. There is simply not enough student interest to offer the variety of courses the older students want.  But the students are a bit spoiled as well.  Even though they are at the outermost fringe of civilization, they have a state of the art school, a heated swimming pool in the gym, indoor ball courts, and regular visits from leading scientists, artists, and Nat Geo film crews. 

It seems no one is really FROM Svalbard, even those born there.  People come, work, play, and then move on.  But maybe that's what makes it so viable and idyllic in many ways - no one remains long enough to create an entrenched status quo. It remains extremely cosmopolitan, on the edge of the world.

Last Monday, I took a lovely train ride down the western shore of the Oslofjord then west to Sandefjord, a relatively good-sized city by Norwegian standards, but still rather small.  Located in the county of Vestfold, the area is very proud of its Viking past which made Sandefjord a shipping hub literally a thousand years ago.  It was a major whaling port well into the 20th century and boasts the world's only whaling museum. In fact, the hotel had whaling artifacts lovingly displayed, including whale bones of various sizes and an impressive array of harpoons. Today, although the economy has diversified, there is still a large shipping presence with specialized factories which produce lubricants and other products.

I spent two days at Sandefjord Videregående Skole, which according to the teachers is the largest upper secondary school in Norway with over 2,000 students. It has IB, college track, and vocational students in fairly compact space.  I spoke exclusively on the upcoming election.  Most of the students were interested and several of them asked extremely insightful questions.  I made them laugh, which is always good.  But I think I need to find a way to make the lesson more interactive.  Not sure what I can do for that when there are 50+ kids in an auditorium, so please, suggestions are welcome.

Monday evening, two of my host teachers invited me for a lovely evening of chat. We started with a quick tour of the city, including a visit to the top of the "hill" which provided a stunning view of the city and fjord.  Little know fact: Sandefjord is home to one of the earliest roundabouts in Europe. After a scrumptious tea, we watched the sun set over Sandefjordfjord (yes, that's the official name of the fjord).  Before returning me to the hotel, we drove out to the site locals are probably most proud of. The area of Vestfold was home to many Viking settlements. As the river silted up and the coast moved farther south, the settlements moved as well.  But people knew where the old settlements had been located, including an ancient burial mound which had lain undisturbed for centuries. Local legend told of mysterious blue lights that hovered over the mound at night and people skirted the area when possible.

In 1880, the mound was excavated and the remains of an entire Viking ship was unearthed.  Substantial grave goods and the skeleton of a Viking chieftain were found in situ.It was one of, if not the, first intact Viking ships and burials discovered.  The ship, referred to as the Gokstad ship, was carefully extracted and promptly sent to Oslo, where it currently resides in the Viking Museum.  Although there is a very nice monument at the mound site, picture at left, which artfully presents the ships dimensions, the locals resent, on some level, that Oslo retains the original. They see the ship as theirs and have lobbied for decades to have the ship returned. There is a full-size, sea-worthy replica which docks in the harbor and is available for tours, but its not the "real" ship.

The teachers would like me to return to the Vestfold in the spring to visit not only Sandefjord VGS, but other smaller schools throughout the county.  Given how beautiful the area was in autumn, I can't wait to see it in full bloom!

Bergen is just as beautiful as people say. Absolutely breathtaking. And I only got to see the tiny bit by the harbor.  The train route through the mountains from Oslo is the route depicted in Harry Potter as the kids travel on the Hogwarts Express.  Brian, the kids and I will be taking that.  :)

The school I went to, Langhaugen VGS, is in a "suburb" of Bergen, which means it's about 10 minute by bus, with stops, from the city center. It was an older school, probably late 60s ,early 70s, and rather small, 500 students.  The class I was with that day actually came in EARLY to hear me.  They did not have to be in school until 10am but all but one were there by 8:15 and stayed until 11:30.  They had really great questions about the American political system and society.  I was very pleased.  I hope to go back in the spring. I already have an invitation from another teacher at the school - hope it all works out.